Saint Mont AOC Celebrates 60 Years

by Paige Donner

Saint Mont is one of France's newer appellations, created in 1957, but one that harbors some of the world's oldest known vines of near-extinct grape varietals.

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photos by Paige Donner copyright 2017 

In 2013 Saint Mont's pre-phylloxera vineyard parcel was given the distinction of historical monument (the first one in France). On this plot of land there are 20 different varietals planted that date back to the 18th c. Red and white grape varietals are planted side by side as was customary in that era. And there are even 6 different varietals planted there that have not yet been identified. 

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photos by Paige Donner copyright 2017 

Here in this wine appellation of the Gascony region they take preservation seriously. You can find hundred-year-old vineyards in Saint Mont where pre-phylloxera vineyards date to 1871; Sarragachies pre-phylloxera vineyards that date to 1810; Limaris that were planted prior to 1910 and then over 130 hectares planted before 1970; and the jewel that is La Madeleine, planted 1880.

The Manseng Noir varietal is considered a "gift to Gascony" by the appellations's vine conservation center. In 2000 one vine was found, by 2002 there were 20 vines in the conservation center; In 2012 you could find .8 hectares planted in Lectoure which yielded its first wine in 2014. By 2016 there were 7.6 hectares planted and now 2017 there are 13.6 hectares in total, a tally that includes the 2 hectares planted in Aignan. 

One of the reasons the region and its vineyard owners and vintners are so devoted to vine preservation is that they recognise the importance of bio-diversity. In 2012 the 20 most prominent grape varieties accounted for 91% of vineyard area. This is compared with just 53% in 1958. 

In Saint Mont we have decided to combat genetic erosion and varietal concentration.

Saint Mont wine tasting, Paris. February 2017. photo by Paige Donner copyright.

Saint Mont wine tasting, Paris. February 2017. photo by Paige Donner copyright.

This is, of course, no small undertaking. In the world of agriculture where diversity is under attack by large-scale agro concerns, uniformity is often the argument that wins out. But in a hundred years, in a thousand years, if all we are left with is one type of tomato, what will happen to our genetic treasure chest? The recent meltdown of Samsung phones is a good illustration of what can happen when something is copied (cloned) and faults appear. It can spell diminishment of quality, and even mean extinction  - and quickly. 

There is wisdom, then, in Saint Mont's dedication to the preservation of diversity. 

Tasting wines made from pre-phylloxera fruit is transportative. It takes you back to an era that can no more be recaptured than time in a bottle. 

The region produces reds, whites and roses. One outstanding white is L'Empreinte 2014. And you are sure to pleased by anything from La Madeleine, Saint Mont Monastery as well as anything vinified by Eric Fitan or Veronique Terrade.  For 2017 Plaimont Producers were chosen as the Cave de l'Annee by La Revue du Vin de France. 

Maison de Vins de Saint Mont  http://www.vins-saintmont.com

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Episode 24 Paris GOOD food + wine - Caviar and Romantic Paris Restaurants for Valentine's Day

Host-producer Paige Donner brings you Episode 24 of Paris GOOD food + wine for February 2017.

This month we're celebrating St. Valentine's here in the City of Love & Light. Valentine's Day or St. Valentin as they say in French is observed here in France though not to the degree that it is in the U.S. at least insofar as the commercial marketing aspect of the holiday.

Because, anyway, Paris is a city filled with such romance that every day feels like Valentine's Day here...

So, for this February Paris GOOD food + wine show, we're bringing you first person interviews with two of the city's scions from its culinary top shelf.

Mr. Armen Petrossian

First up we hear from Armen Petrossian. If the name Petrossian rings a bell it's because you're likely familiar with the world's best known, quality caviar. Over the last century, Petrossian has become synonymous with caviar and understandably so – with a global marketshare unrivaled by any other single brand, Petrossian has maintained the strictest quality control over its caviar throughout the generations.

Armen Petrossian is the son and heir to the founder of his family fortune. He discusses with us here the company's history, their philosophy and gives us some inside tips on sourcing excellent caviar.

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Chef Mathieu Pacaud in the kitchens of Le Divellec, Paris 7ème Arrondissement

Next up is our second interview with a family scion, this time with Chef Mathieu Pacaud. This chef is also heir to an iconic family. Namely his father is the 3-star Michelin chef of Ambroisie here in Paris. But that hasn't stopped this young 30-something from boldly and unabashedly earning his own stripes.

In the past couple of years he opened three restaurants in Paris: Hexagone, now a 1 Michelin star restaurant, L'Histoires, now a 2 Michelin star restaurant and one of Paris's most romantic dining experiences; And most recently, he took on the mantle of Le Divellec, for generations the most famous fish restaurant in Paris, now completely renovated and re-imagined by Chef Pacaud.

So sit back and get ready to be thoroughly charmed and enchanted by our two Parisian scions of great families from France's culinary world.

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A Dozen Christmas Cakes and A Happy Holiday Wish w/Love

Christmas wouldn't be Christmas without cakes!  Sooo many delicious cakes! 

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Episode 22 - Paris GOOD food + wine, the Christmas 2016 Show by Paige Donner

by Paige Donner

Happy Holidays to you and yours from Paris!

If you're listening to the show from outside France I'd like to share with you some of the sights and sounds and smells that make up the warm and cheerful holiday season here in the City of Lights.

Angelo Musa, Exec Pastry Chef, Plaza Athénée Paris & His star pastries for Christmas 2016

First of all, Christmas decorations start going up by about the 3^rd week of November, giving us a long run-up to the happiest day of the year.

The Christmas markets on the Champs-Elysées and in Paris' St.-Germain-des-Prés are all up by this time, too. Here you can find mulled wine, that warm, sweet and spicy red wine that is so emblematic of the holidays here in Europe. The savory smells of roasting chestnuts and hot crepes are also wafting in the air.

Christmas trees are outside all the florist's shops and a common site one sees is people walking down the narrow cobble streets carrying one home for their kids.

The churches, like St. Paul on rue St. Antoine in the Marais, have their creches on display, often lit with twinkling candles that invite you to gaze in wonder and reverence on the baby Jesus manger scene, so central to Christmas celebrations.

This year, for our December show, I'm introducing you to a truly marvelous gourmet gift shop that is easy to find in the Les Halles district, Paris' traditional food district. It's called the Boutique Dans Le Noir and is the little shop of specialty food items that is associated with the celebrated restaurant, Dans Le Noir, a restaurant staffed entirely by the blind and nearly blind. Our interviewee for this segment is the boutique's staff intern, Rasmya Hadji, originally from the Comores Islands and perfectly bilingual in both French and English.

 

Boutique Dans le Noir, Paris

 

Boutique Dans le Noir, Paris

 

Boutique Dans le Noir, Paris, Rasmya Hadji

 

Boutique Dans le Noir, Paris, Rasmya Hadji

 

Boutique Dans le Noir, Paris, Rasmya Hadji

 

Boutique Dans le Noir, Paris - All photos by Paige Donner copyright 2016

Next, I take you to meet the Plaza Athenée's new pastry chef, Angelo Musa. Here in Paris, the Plaza is one of the holiday destinations of choice and always does things up with great Christmas fanfare. This year, in addition to their Dior decorated Christmas tree, they are also featuring, as is custom, a special tea time. There are few more delicious ways to enjoy a cosy December afternoon than with a pot of tea or hot chocolate and a delicate, melt-in-your mouth fine pastry made by Chef Musa.

So curl up by the proverbial fireplace and enjoy our special Christmas 2016 edition of Paris GOOD food + wine.

Music courtesy of http://www.freexmasmp3.com/

"First Noel" - R&B version

Traditional English Christmas song in a Rhythm and Blues instrumental version. The author of this song in unknown, many dates it back to 13th century. The first publications were with the name "The first nowell".

"Ding Dong Merrily on High"

One of the most famous and our favorites traditional Christmas song. The lyrics was published in 1924 by George Woodward, while the melody is dated back about to the 15th century and was a popular French carol.

"Silent Night" - Disco edition

One of the most famous Christmas carol translated in over 300 languages. Published here in a disco version in honor of the Austrian author of the melody Franz Gruber who has composed it as a sprightly, dance-like song.

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