Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Fun With Okanagan Food And Wine

Fun With Food And Wine



Okanagan Wine Culture, Wine and Canines
“When you were a kid, fun was when you piled in the car with your family and a few friends and went to the ice cream shop for a cone. Now, fun is when you pile into the car with a few friends and your significant other and head out for an afternoon of wine tastings at the local boutique wineries,” says Jeremy Luypen, Executive Chef at Passa Tempo restaurant at Spirit Ridge. He's speaking from a perspective of a certain amount of privilege, but not necessarily the silver spoon variety. Rather, the privilege comes from choosing to live in a region wealthy with grape vines and dotted with boutique wineries, and knowing how to make full use of the bounty he finds within his reach.

The Okanagan is a valley whose bounty and beauty stare you in the face, but which many can be blind to, or make themselves blind to. Again, it comes down to a matter of perspective. “Every winery in the valley makes at least two or three good wines. At least two or three. The thing to do is to figure out, by going to the wineries' tasting rooms or getting together with friends for tastings, which ones you like,” advises Luypen. “Wine tastings are fun,” he adds, “It's a chance for you and your girlfriend to go out without going to a nightclub.”


Wine Tastings With Friends

During the winter he and his friends have been “growing their wine community,” he explains. What they do is hold wine tastings twice a month on Sundays. They invite about 15-20 people who each show up with a bottle of wine and then they do blind tastings. “We tried 20 Chardonnays one night. We had 10 new world, 10 old world. All different price points. It's fun to watch a $25 bottle of Chardonnay win over something that's more expensive simply because people like it,” he says. They did one similarly with champagne where his friends brought bottles ranging in price points from $375 on down to $27. “The $27 bottle of bubbly from South Africa won,” he recounted, impressed by the surprise outcome.

Wine tastings are a favorite topic of this accomplished chef who is currently getting additional certification as a sommelier. He says he's fond of explaining to his Mom that, “Drinking wine is part of my job description” and also adds that Valley resident Ingo Grady, the wine educator at Mission Hill, is “One of the smartest people I know when it comes to wine.”

Jeremy has a couple of simple, basic pointers when it comes to food and wine pairings. He advises that when you serve a complex meal, couple it with simple wine. When you have complex wine, serve a simple meal. “Out of every meal and every glass of wine, there's always only ever going to be one that's going to be the star. Either the wine or the food,” he explains.


Sablefish, Passa Tempo Restaurant

Okanagan Culinary Culture
The years this Okanagan College Culinary Arts graduate spent in Calgary at the Chicago Chophouse taught him a few tricks, as much in people management skills as in cooking. “I've read at least as many books on psychology and philosophy as I have cookbooks,” explains Luypen who also currently teaches courses at Okanagan College. He attributes the loyalty he inspires in his kitchen team to people skills. “Show them a lot of respect, take an interest in their lives and their families, and they'll reward you with hard work,” says Luypen, who recalls a young man he once hired when he ran the Hotel El Dorado's dining room in Kelowna who cleaned hundreds of mussels every night for two months for the 490-seat restaurant. “After two months we promoted him, knowing that whatever I asked him to do in the kitchen, he'd do.”

Luypen also speaks fondly about the culture that has sprung up among the Chefs in the Okanagan Valley. “Chefs in the Valley are becoming so much fun,” says Luypen, “We're making guest appearances in each other's restaurants, doing Iron Chef cook-offs and teaming up for Wine Dinners.” During the years that Luypen was at Calgary's Chicago Chophouse, Ned Bell was across the way at the Vintage Chophouse. A friendly rivalry between the two Executive Chefs continues today, when both once again find themselves working in the same culinary community.

“We'll do wine dinners, for example, where all the ingredients are the same and the wine pairings are the same, and then it's up to the chefs to put their distinguishing touch on the dishes. Lobster, for example, people often think there's only one way to prepare a lobster. But in fact there are more options than just boiling it, especially depending on what wine you are asked to pair it with,” explains Luypen. This is where a chef can really show his artistic as well as culinary skills and that extra talent, that je ne sais quois, that comes with the most intuitive of culinary masters.

Luypen is the last to take the profession too seriously, however. “Chef jackets look like a straight jacket for a reason,” he'll tell you with a laugh. And then in the next moment, in all somberness, will tell you that the hardest part of the job is “telling your kid you can't be at his hockey games,” because of the brutal hours that go along with being a Head Chef.

Passa Tempo
Five weeks into his Passa Tempo gig, and Luypen is already very happy with his move. The restaurant's capacity has much fewer seatings than his previous job at the Hotel Eldorado.


Kettle Valley And Gewurz Slushes

Take, for example, when you get him onto the topic of the Naramata Bench. He's got lots of favorites out in this exquisite little area that fronts the Lake (wine! afterall!) but don't even get him started on Kettle Valley Winery and their Gewurz slushes. “One day my friends and I had had a long day of wine tasting where we'd started at 11 and gone until 5, stopping only for lunch. Our last stop on the Naramata Bench was Kettle Valley which is at the very end. Basically it's this lady who sells her wine out of her garage. She offered us the absolute best Gewurz slushes – it was something like 35 degrees out that afternoon and she just blended us all up these fantastic Gewurztraminer slushes and we sat around her plastic picnic table and drank down those ice cold slushes. It was absolutely the best!”

That's what he loves most about his valley, he says. It's that you can go from the imposing magnificence of a Mission Hill, even the tasteful elegance of a Quail's Gate and then on over to the humbleness of a Kettle Valley at the end of the Naramata Bench – and all experiences will be equally as exquisitely memorable – gratifying in their own way.

Another area on his favorites page is the section of North Okanagan where there's a triumvirate of Gray Monk, Arrowleaf Cellars and Ex Nihilo. “They have put together the ultimate wedding package,” he says “You can literally walk between each of the wineries. Start off at  Arrowleaf where their plantation perch and rolling green hills overlook Okanagan Lake, making it a perfect setting for a wedding; then walk over to Ex Nihilo Vineyards for some wine tasting and tapas and top it off at Gray Monk estates, also a walkable only few hundred yards away, with an excellent dinner,” he says, explaining that Ex Nihilo is affiliated with the Rolling Stone winery out of Napa and has built out a “beautiful tasting room.”
Sounds to us like there's summers – and seasons – of fun to be had with Okanagan Food And Wine.  PassaTempoRestaurant. 

Local Food And Wine *   Vancouver Food And Wine *

Okanagan Food And Wine

Friday, April 30, 2010

John Schreiner: Okanagan Wine Tour Guide

Vineyards Surround Lake Okanagan

Wine Of The People, By The People, For The People

Schreiner's 3rd Edition is out May 1st 2010, Updated and Revised
Just in time for the Okanagan's Spring Wine Festival, John Schreiner's 3rd edition of John Schreiner's Okanagan Wine Tour Guide, is out in book stores May 1st 2010.

Schreiner's guides to wine offer an approachable and friendly introduction to the region's winegrowers, winemakers and proprietors of the ever-expanding Okanagan Valley wine community in addition to the wines themselves.

In the book's Intro, Schreiner tells you upfront that he didn't write the book for “technicians,” but rather for people who enjoy drinking wine and for the people who make the wine that we enjoy drinking.

“Wine is not a clinical product to be separated from the people who grow it. The art in wine is what attracts both consumers and wine growers,” writes Schreiner in his Introduction to the book's 3rd edition. The first edition was published in 2006 and already there are a good many new additions to the Okanagan winery fold, with more wineries planned and building underway.

“In most of the tasting rooms I have visited, everyone is having fun, especially during wine festival time,” writes Schreiner, reminiscing, “During the Okanagan's Spring Wine Festival 2005, I was lounging on the deck at Jeff and Niva Martin's La Frenz winery, savouring a glass of Shiraz...”.

This is the context, a context of place, time and people in which John Schreiner uniquely can immerse you when it comes to the distinctive regions and wines of the Okanagan. His perspective dates back 35 years when he first began touring the region in search of good wines. The Okanagan's current vibrant wine industry really only dates back to the late 80's/early 90's so Schreiner's insight is one that lends itself to developing right alongside with the then-nascent wine industry of the region itself.

The book delves into the various regions of the Okanagan. The Okanagan Lake itself is 135 km. stretching more or less N-S from Penticton up to Salmon Arm. The wine growing regions are dotted all along there and stretch down, past Skaha Lake, into the Golden Mile and Black Sage Bench areas of Oliver and then down into Osoyoos, around Lake Osoyoos which spans the U.S./ Canada Border, and then a bit West over into Keremeos and Cawston, known as the Similkameen Valley.

Wonderful Lake Okanagan wineries and vineyards, British Columbia

His book beguiles you with the charms of Naramata Bench, a wine-growing region overlooking the expansive, beautiful and pristine Lake Okanagan; delves into the people with a dream some of whom are just selling their first '09 vintages in time for Spring Wine Festival 2010, kicking off today in the Okanagan. He gives you a brief background on valley influentials such as Elias Phiniotis, Ron Taylor, and Howard Soon. He also takes you into the past with historical anecdotes about B.C.'s oldest continually operating winery (since 1932), Calona Vineyards, and forward into the future sharing with you certain family's plans to plant on the northern perches of Salmon Arm, where the nearest vineyard at Larch Hills is at B.C.'s highest elevation of 700 meters/ 2,300 feet.

Winner 2009, VPIWF, Spirited Industry Professional

Most importantly, however, Schreiner will introduce you to the people who have chosen to build their lives around the vine, to make the best of the hand that Mother Nature deals them season after season. With this kind of an introduction to a region's wine, you can't help but fall in love with the ones that please your palate, and keep returning year after year to see what magic has been bottled in this year's new vintage.

*Note Book's Wine Speak Glossary at the end is very helpful and is sure to make you sound like you know what you're talking about when you're in the Tasting Rooms.

John Schreiner's Okanagan Wine Tour Guide (2010), 161 pgs.

Available in Bookstores and Online Now

For More On Schreiner visit: John Schreiner's Blog

Twitter @LocalFoodWine * FaceBook/LocalFoodAndWine 

*Local Food And Wine *   

Posted via web from Okanagan Food And Wine

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Celebrity Wine Festival - Osoyoos June 2010

Host and Presenter, Jason Priestley

The Osoyoos Celebrity Wine Festival (OCWF) is presented by Destination Osoyoos, in tandem with presenting sponsor Black Hills Estate Winery, Hotel Sponsors Walnut Beach Resort, Spirit Ridge Resort, Watermark Beach Resort and the business community of Osoyoos.

The Vinos 

Co-host and Presenter, Steven Page

 


Celebrity Wine Fest's Commercial Competition. Win wine!!!

The Osoyoos Celebrity Wine Festival takes place from June 10 to 13, 2010. It’s a great weekend of food and wine pairing events from regional chefs and winemakers, and lets participants rub shoulders with film and television A-listers while enjoying the region’s best cuisine and wine. So far, the following celebrities have confirmed their attendance: Jason Priestley (Beverley Hills 9020, Hollywood & Vines1), Bruce Greenwood (Star Trek, National Treasure), Ned Bell (Food Network), and Chad Oakes (Emmy award-winning producer). Other celebrity actors, chefs and winemakers are being invited.

  • Thursday, June 10, 8:00 pm at the Watermark Resort: The Vinos - a wine commercial film festival for amateurs. Tickets $29.
  • Friday, June 11, 9 am to noon: Ride with a Winemaker. Join local winemakers as they enjoy a bike ride and picnic lunch in the South Okanagan. $70.
  • Friday, June 11, 6:00-10:00 pm at Walnut Beach Resort: Osoyoos VIP Reception and Beach Party. $99.
  • Saturday, June 12, 12 noon to 3 pm at Black Hills Estate Winery: Nota Bene Release Party. $149
  • Saturday, June 12, 7 pm to 11 pm at Spirit Ridge Resort: Celebrity Wine Auction with proceeds benefiting children’s charities. Participants taste an array of South Okanagan wines with appetizers from local restaurants, and can bid on rare wine from great Canadian wineries in silent and live auctions. Last year, $55,000 was raised for the Providence Children’s Centre and Osoyoos Child Care. The evening features a live performance by Steven Page, formerly of the Bare Naked Ladies. $249.

 

Posted via web from Okanagan Food And Wine

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Burrowing Owl Estate Winemaker Bertus Albertyn


Bertus Albertyn, Burrowing Owl Estate Winemaker, Photo Courtesy Gord Wylie

Burrowing Owl, the 140-acre property that sits at the crown of the Okanagan's Black Sage Bench's Road 22, has a new winemaker. His name is Bertus Albertyn.

Bertus is a South African native married to a Canadian physician who took his post at the South Okanagan property, owned and run by Chris Wyse, in January earlier this year. There he will make the wine from the 125 acres of vineyards under cultivation that produce approximately 30,000 cases each year. Mind you, even at this volume of production, relatively large for the Okanagan, you're likely only to be able to find a bottle of Burrowing Owl, nearly any variety, any vintage, at the winery's wineshop itself or at select restaurants in B.C. There's just too much demand for it to be able to keep the VQA liquor stores continually stocked.


Burrowing Owl Vineyard Management, Photo by Randy Lincks

“It's a breath of fresh air to come here to Canada,” says Bertus. “Here in B.C. we can't produce enough grapes to fulfill B.C. Consumption.”

It's a good insight into British Columbia's young wine industry, if a relatively modest one. Recently we asked Bertus what the secret is to making great wines:

“Winemaking itself is generally a simple process. If you have good quality grapes you are going to make a good wine. The key is to take yourself out of the equation as much as possible.”

Since we're thinking there might be just a little bit more to winemaking than that, we cajoled Bertus into talking to us a bit longer to see what gives.

“It's important to know when to take the grapes off the vine. And temperature control,” he conceded. He hastened to add that the practices he's following at Burrowing Owl Winery since coming on board in January have been in place there from the beginning. “With a cellar producing such a great product for so long, the systems that have produced the wines are to be treated as such. These practices are not something new for the cellar.”


Burrowing Owl Long-timer,  Fernando Bottoni,  Photo Courtesy Gord Wylie


Fernando Bottoni (long time cellar worker), Bertus Albertyn, Joey Matias (long time cellar worker), Emmerick Keller (Plant Manager) and Scott Stefishen (Assistant Winemaker). Missing is Pat Johnson. Photo by Gord Wylie.

South African Roots

Bertus Albertyn looks – and is – still young but has a lifetime of grape growing under his belt. He has a degree in Viticulture and Oenology. He worked at two vineyards in South Africa, the Wellington Cellars, a large operation that bears the same name to the Wellington Wine Growing Region in South Africa and which “produces as much grapes there as in all of Canada;” and the Avondale where he learned organic winemaking and vineyard management “approved by Mother Nature” at this small family-owned winery.

International Vintages

While working in South Africa he did a vintage in Sonoma, a vintage in Italy outside of Venice, and two in France, one in Crozes-Hermitage at Alain Graillot, and the other in the South of France, Domaine Des Anges. “I did the harvest in France, Italy and America while I was working South Africa. I would do a crush every 2 years in a different part of the world to broaden my knowledge of winemaking. This also helped me to broaden my vision and taste,” Bertus told us. So the fact that the seasons in Canada are inverted to the seasonal changes in South Africa doesn't phase him; it's something he's learned to work to his advantage.

The Winemaking Touch

Bertus's approach to wine is a tactile one: “I'm fond of smelling wine. But at the end of the day you have to drink the wine. It's about the enjoyment of the palate, the fullness and softness of the wine.”

He said it's the post-fermentation maceration that yields a softer, rounder wine and this can also help with the age-ability of the wine. He'll also tell you that the sooner you can interject oak into the wine, the better. Then he “ages it at least 18 months.”

Of course, it really all begins during the harvesting and then the crush. “We're lucky here because of the cold nights. The grapes go into the cellar cold. When you can start at a low enough temperature then they can't peak very high. It's important not to let the temperature go up to 35 c. - that can kill your yeast. If you can increase your temperature during fermentation, you double your ability to extract,” he explained.

Not everyone in the Okanagan uses a sorting table. In fact, it's a very distinctive choice that a winemaker makes. Bertus uses a sorting table. When asked if this goes counter to his philosophy of “taking yourself out of the equation,” he responded:

“We're not changing anything. We're just taking out the debris. We're just doing a better job. Leaves are a very bad thing because they're green. We're destemming. But we're not totally crushing. And of course we use only ripe grapes. No green grapes,” he said with a laugh.

For his white wines he's also fond of a more “old-world” style of wine making. He's quick to point out that South Africa has a long heritage of grape growing. One of the wineries where he worked dates itself back to 1693 when it was established.

“Our whites are whole-bunch wines. We do no de-stemming,” explained Bertus. “The stems are actually used as a filtration system to yield cleaner wine. Our pinot gris and chardonnay are all more old-world, lightly settled and have a 'darker ferment.' With a dirtier juice you have more flexibility in fermentation. More glycerines give more body in the wine. New world wines, for example, are all de-stemmed. That creates up-front fruit flavors.” Bertus went on to explain that the whole bunch press delivers a juice with a lower solid content; cleaner juice, in fact, than destemming.


Jim & Midge Wyse – Proprietors of Burrowing Owl Estate Winery;         Photo by Gord Wylie

Burrowing Owl Vineyards is also known as a green winery. Named after the regionally endangered species of Burrowing Owl, when Midge and Jim Wyse purchased the vineyards in '93, they created a custom of donating $2 for each tasting at the winery. That $2 goes towards South Okanagan Rehabilitation Center For Owls and to the Burrowing Owl Conservation Society of B.C. They've donated more than $250,000 to date.


Jim and Midge Wyse, Proprietors, Kerri Wyse McNolty (center) and Chris Wyse, President (r) Burrowing Owl Estate Winery; Photo by Gord Wylie

Re-use: All wine bottles used in the wine shop and in the restaurant operations are cleaned out and re-used at the winery. They use an alternative pest control system. And The Sonora Room, the on-site restaurant, adheres to a less than 100-km local food supply philosophy, a philosophy and a tradition at the Sonora Room that their new Executive Chef team will continue on beginning May 1st when they re-open for full time summer season hours.

Black Sage Road, Oliver, B.C., Canada www.burrowingowlwine.ca


Twitter @LocalFoodWine

Posted via web from Okanagan Food And Wine

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Culinaria's Road To Joy

Joy And Food Enthusiasm

During the South Okanagan Winery Association's Banee' Celebration of Spring's Wine releases this year, a whole bushelful of the Okanagan's triumphantly artisanal culinarians offered samplings of their tastiest morsels.

Event was generously sponsored by the Watermark Beach Resort who made available their entire 2nd floor conference hall for the approximately400 assembled guests and exhibitors. Location overlooking Lake Osoyoos is a spectacular choice for weddings and other celebrations and gatherings. Culinaria was co-ordinated and produced by Anthony Buree' of ABDM Design and Perseus Winery and Vineyards.

There were Spirit Truffles by Osoyoos' Barbara Scheuren whose rich, creamy truffles dusted in powdery cacao have a spicy kick, like a Mexican hot chocolate, that only reveals itself once the chocolate has coated the back of your throat.

Blue Icing Bakery from Penticton featured their mini chocolate cupcakes dolloped with their signature heavy-on-the-butter, heavy-on-the-cream whipped frosting in ice-blue.  Rich, chocolatey and not too sweet, their cakes and cupcakes are a favorite with brides-to-be when they are planning their receptions.

Poplar Cheese from out on the Naramata Bench was giving away generous slices of their renowned blue cheese. It's mild and creamy without melting out the blue-cheese bite that fromage lovers crave. There are barely a handful of artisanal cheesemakers in the Valley, but even if there was one on every corner, Poplar is still worthy of the visit, whether you're going wine tasting out on the Naramata Bench or not.

Sezmu Meats sliced off thick, juicy, med-rare cooked hunks of just roasted beef.  Janice, the daughter of the founder who now runs the operation, was encouraging attendees to get their Freezer Pack orders in now for summer barbecuing and entertaining. A Freezer Pack consists of:  4 ribeyes or tenderloins, 4 flat iron steaks, 8 sirloin steaks, 10 lbs. of stewing meat, 20 lbs. of ground beef, 1 brisket and 3 roasts.  She's also coming out with lean ground burgers, just in time for the hot summer nights.  A Pack costs $435 total and it's a good idea to get your orders in now.

Wineries offering tastings included Road 13, Quinta Ferreira and Desert Hills among many others.  The Iron Chef contest was Emceed by Terry David Mulligan and judged by local food and wine celebrationists Jay Drysdale, Rhys Pender and Kelly Robson.

JoyRoad Catering's Dana and Cam conducted their Culinaria Cooking Demonstration with their signature Food Enthusiasm.

Fun to hear them speak about their month-long sojourn in Spain and how they can so easily recreate those dishes using the Okanagan's local food crops such as fresh farm eggs, garlic, and ripe local tomatoes.

Twitter @LocalFoodWine

*Local Food And Wine*

Okanagan Food And Wine * Vancouver Food And Wine

Posted via web from Okanagan Food And Wine

Monday, April 19, 2010

South Okanagan Winery Association Banee' 2010

 Speed Dating For Wine Lovers

New and fresh at this year's Banee', sponsored and organized by the South OkanaganWinery Association, was “Speed Dating Wine Tasting,” an event that took place on a sunny Saturday afternoon at the Walnut Beach Resort in Osoyoos.

Fortified with a light lunch that included Farmed Fresh Bacon, cut thick and griddle-fried, Lettuce and Tomato sandwiches along with a dessert accent of wild, organic blueberry mousse prepared by Walnut Beach Resort Head Chef, Justin Paakunainen, a group of about twenty of us wine-taster-speed-daters were ushered into the afternoon of speed- dating-wine-tasting with the SOWA wineries.

I happened to get placed next to Anthony Gismondi in the circular round of 18 Wine Tasting “stations” that event organizers dubbed “the ladies,” and we tasters were the “men” who were given 5 minutes at each of the 18 wineries represented. With Gismondi, who is described as B.C.'s premier wine taster, - along with John Schreiner, Sid Cross and Tim Pawsey - it was fortunate placement. Since Gismondi, who has had a “bit of a hand” (quoting him here) in the organizing of the Playhouse International Wine Festival over the years in Vancouver, had hatched the idea of “Speed Dating Wine Tastings” which they've been promoting for months now, he was pleased to see that his brainchild had manifested and multiplied.

Banee is the annual celebration of Spring Releases by the South Okanagan Wineries Association.

Speed Dating Wine Tasting

My afternoon of “dating” began with Desert Hills where Winery Proprietor Randy Toor poured no less than seven wines. At his Black Sage Bench property earlier that morning, he had informed the group that in the hottest part of summer he waters only once a week for 7-8 hours. Considering that last summer temperatures in the region reached into the 40's c. we're talking stressed vines,which, as any seasoned winemaker will tell you, yields the better fruit.

The South Okanagan is known for their reds and a couple of stars, amongst distinguished contenders, to come out of the Golden Mile this year are Fairview Cellars' Cabernet Sauvignon '09 which Bill Eggert has aged 16 months in his Radoux French Oak. He'll tell you that his best wine comes from one row of grapes, uniquely yielding because of the “pure sand seam that goes right across my vineyard,” and the “alluvial fan” that characterizes the land his vineyard sits on there in the Golden Mile. This is what he's pulled this vintage from. Put your orders in now. He had just bottled it hours before pouring it at the Speed Dating Wine Tasting this past weekend. Price is $120 per bottle, a Valley first.

It's All About The Terroir?

Remarkable to note is that both Randy's (Desert Hills) and Bill's (Fairview) properties are right next to one another there on the Black Sage Bench. As you follow along Road 22, both are nestled in the same “alluvial fan” and both have similar sandy, silty-with-very-little-topsoil ground to play with. And yet the wines are richly and distinctly different catering almost to not just a different mood or dish but almost even altogether different palates. Desert Hills' Gewurztraminer '09 reflects this dynamic of thirst-quenching freshness, and keeping with the theme of summertime and bbq'ing, the Desert Hills Gamay can go down chilled though not to be missed is their '07 Malbec Proprietor's Reserve, their “pride.”

Steady And Strong

Wine choices that are “fool-proof” and “fail-safe” are Burrowing Owl's Merlot '07 – rich, ripe and red. As John Schreiner puts it, “it's just damned good.” Bertus, their new winemaker, says that in another six months it will be even better when it has a chance to open up. Their Meritage '07 also gives a full flavor profile though, again, Bertus says you can give it another year – or 10 or 15, too, even. The structure is that solid. I find these wines to be masculine. They're strong and vibrant and there's virility that trembles beneath the notes.

Hester Creek's Trebbiano and their Merlot '08. The Trebbiano comes from the only Italian vines planted in the Okanagan, which Hester Creek's owners brought from Italy 40 years ago. Rob, the winemaker's, expertise is in smoothing out the tannins in their full-bodied reds, so you get all of the flavor of a Merlot without the bite. Andrew Moon, Tinhorn Creek's Aussie winemaker of less than a year, explains something about the tannins of the region: The tannins in the Merlot here can “blow your head off,” he says, explaining the importance of tannin management for South Okanagan winemaking, adding that "we'll never get to the levels of a Bordeaux." Okanagan wine educator and consultant, Rhys Pender, explains that "No other place in the world has such a short, hot climate." Tinhorn Creek and Hester Creek wineries are next door neighbors on the Golden Mile.

Inniskillin's '07 Tempranillo. There are only 200 cases. This is only the 2nd vintage. Go. Buy. It. Now.

We kid you not. This is one of the most outstanding, not to mention smooth, hearty and amiable wines to come out of the region. And it's not a grape that anyone else in the valley plants. They've aged it in new French oak about 30% and then for the remainder 70% in 1 and 2 year old barrels. Bottled in May will be their '08 Malbec.

Cassini's '07 Pinot Noir Reserve is their first pinot noir vintage. They've only done 115 cases. Count yourself lucky if you score yourself a bottle before it's sold out. Their Nobilus is 100% Merlot, unusual these days when many of the winemakers are going towards blends. Casssini's Adrian Capeneata is just simply all about no-frills good, solid wine.

People know Road 13 well for their reds. 'Nough said. We'll tell you, watch for their Chenin Blanc '09. It's only been out two weeks now, it's got beautiful acidic balance. Bartier, Mick and Pam have created another big hit that's a phenomenal food wine. Don't forget, too, that '09 saw significant crop damage so only half the crop was harvested. That translates into get it while the gettin's good. [500 cases total]. Also, if you get your hands on a bottle of their '07 Jackpot Chardonnay, made from grapes that were, “in a word – perfect,” then pressed whole cluster, drink up!

Nk'Mip's new release is their '08 Pinot Noir grown on their Black Sage Bench vines, as opposed to their Osoyoos property. Assistant winemaker Justin describes the French Oak aging process altogether too humbly. We're fans, of course, of their Q2 Meritage '07 which we've already written about here.

Le Vieux Pin's Apogee Merlot and Epoque Merlot are too deserving of applause not to be mentioned here. They've been hitting it out of the ballpark since their first vintage in '05, and people keep talking about LVP's '06 vintage. New and not yet labeled is a Rose' coming from their Golden Mile vineyards. Shhhh...though. Some wines are just so good, they shouldn't even be legal to drink!

More on the Whites...

Stoneboat's Chorus '09. Winemaker Tim Martiniuk, a young man, has blended a proprietary signature vintage that no one in the Valley can duplicate. He credits their soil's calcerous deposits and heavy gravel for the juice he was able to get from his pinot blanc, pinot gris, Kerner and Viognier grapes which he used to make Chorus. This is the wine we enjoyed with our salmon and grilled vegetable dinner. A perfect pairing. Stoneboat's Pinot Blanc '09 was blessed with botrytis so the 25-year old vines give notes of honey and cloves; the nose, surprisingly, is sweeter than the taste.

Oliver Twist's '09 Viognier is 5 years aged, slight notes of tobacco. It's a nice contrast to their Chardonnay '08 which took B.C. Gold in the Fall Wine Fest.

Quinta Ferreira's Mistura Branca '08 is a Muskat Gewurz blend. Michael, by nature a reserved winemaker, showed uncharacteristic exuberance when pouring. And I'd have to agree, it's wine worth the enthusiasm.

Gehringer does white wines well. Their Auxerrois pinot blanc is fail-safe and as the genetic sister to the more commonly known pinot blanc, it won't throw your palate off. Private Reserve Riesling '09 has now been bottled from their stainless steel tanks and offers good value.

Jackson-Triggs '09 Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc offers a greener, acidic backbone; the fruit comes from the start of the Black Sage Bench Road, so the slight difference in temperatures is evident in the juice.

Let's Talk Rose'

Rose' is this year's “come-back kid.” Oft-dismissed as betwixt and between, when you get your hands on the right one, it most certainly stands on its own. Rose' beckons and celebrates summer. And we welcome summer!

Jackson-Triggs '09 Rose' makes a delightful showing this Spring. It's the first year Derek has made the wine with Merlot grapes rather than Cabernet Franc. He ferments it as you would a white and the yield is something altogether too easy to reach for - sip and savor.

Tinhorn Creek's Sandy will tell you that she was up 'til 4 a.m. the other night bottling her 2 Bench Rose'. She's blended 40% cabernet franc and merlot with pinot gris. They've done 103 cases and we recommend a try. Their Pinot Gris '09, at approximately 6,000 cases, makes their Rose' vintage a Proprietor's Reserve Blend.

Golden Beaver's “Heart of Gold,” '09 is a blend of Viognier, Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc. And lest your mind starts to wander down the more imaginative path, Bruno and Stella explain that they are both music lovers and enthusiasts, - their neighbors describe their living room walls as "covered" with guitars and music paraphernalia. Stella has named their next release, “Heartbreaker,” after one of her Led Zeppelin favorites, since Bruno named Heart of Gold after the Neil Young hit song. Their Late Harvest Pinot Blanc '08 has 20g. of sugar in it but really it tastes only medium sweet. It's worth a try and as a foodie it allows you to get creative with the pairing. It will be out in May.

Silver Sage has some unique offerings. Their Sunset '08 has the look and feel of a rose'. It's a blend of white wine and berries with aromas of cranberry and raspberry. This is a brunch with the girls wine; it's their “golfer's special,” and it's also great to have a few bottles on hand for the girlfriends' mani-pedi-spa day. Their Flame '09 is a dessert wine and it's spicy! These are cocktail wines.

Rustico Farm and Cellars is the new kid on the block and Bruce has crafted stories for each of his wines. He'd love to tell you all about his Gewurztraminer “Farmer's Daughter,” when you stop by the winery there in the South Okanagan for a sample.

Speed Dating Summary

Speed Dating for Wine Lovers offered fantastic insight into the complex variations of a region's wines and winemakers. One of the most informative take-homes was how grapes grown in the same soil, with the same sun, even on the same or neighboring alluvial fan, can yield such different vintages. The South Okanagan has, of course, the difference of the two sides, the “right bank” and “left bank” with significant variations of sun exposure and even slight temperature variation from the north part of the acreage to 20 km. or so to the south of the SOWA region. It does give you a glimpse into the tremendous input that a the winemaker has on the final outcome of a vintage.

We're definitely in keeping with the consensus of the other Speed Daters, Tim Pawsey, Sid Cross, Christina Burridge, Anthony Gismondi, John Schreiner, Terry David Mulligan and the rest: that it's a great way to taste nearly a hundred wines in just under an hour and a half and and that it's absolutely most effective when the wineries keep their selections to a range of no more than three wines.

Twitter @LocalFoodWine

*Local Food And Wine*

Okanagan Food And Wine * Vancouver Food And Wine

Posted via web from Okanagan Food And Wine

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Winemaker's Cup 2010

WineMaker's Cup 2010, Mt. Baldy, Photo by Voth Photography, Subject to Copyright

If there’s an Okanagan wine or winery you’ve fallen for you have perhaps, at some point during the sipping and the savoring, wondered what magical creature, besides Mother Nature, is responsible for crafting such an elixir?

Winemakers Cup Mt. Baldy, Katrina from Bellstar Resorts in Background, Photo by Voth Photography

Well, we’re here to tell you that when it comes to the Okanagan winemakers, you’re much better off letting your imagination run wild. Because if you ever end up actually meeting this crew of culinary outlaws, this wild bunch of winos ( i.e. winemakers) all your grand illusions of the finesse, elegance and cultured expertise that you thought went into the making of your favorite Okanagan wine, will be dashed once you put the face to the label. At least, that is, before you’ve finished off your first bottle. Perceptions can change…

Winemakers Cup 2010, Photo copyright by Voth Photography

What you will find if, say, you get so lucky as to hang out with the valley’s vintners at next year’s Winemaker’s Cup, is a rowdy group of fun-loving, hard working, big appetite and wine appreciating people…people who come from all walks and all backgrounds and now find themselves growing, harvesting, crushing and sorting grapes on vineyard outposts somewhere, anywhere, between Black Sage Rd. and Vernon.

Held this year, the 3rd Annual, under the springtime sunshine up on the snow-covered slopes of Mt. Baldy, the Winemaker’s Cup is the brainstorm of Glenn from Black Hills Estate Winery, Mohammed, formerly of Spirit Ridge and now of Enotecca, Katrina of Bellstar Resorts and anyone else who cares to claim credit.

Winemaker's Cup 2010, Mt. Baldy, Photo Courtesy Voth Photography, Copyright

Really what it is is an excuse for the winemakers to pit themselves against one another on the treacherous bunny slopes of Mt. Baldy, braving the harrowing blue- and red-marked racecourse as they jettison downhill at Olympic speeds. Or not. It depends on who’s telling the story…and how much beer and wine they’ve had before, during and after the telling.

Jesse from Black Hills Estate, Photo by Voth Photography

Conditions this past weekend were so perilous up on the mountain that Jesse, chief bottle washer and cork capper at Black Hills Estate, turned up wearing his pajama pants…and skied all day in them. Later that evening, an undisclosed source assured us that he, in fact, had not slept in them the night before. We strongly suspect that Jesse is traveling incognito, in furlough from the That 70’s Show, we just can’t think of which episode…?

View the Paul Cotton WineMaker’s Cup Video HERE >>>

Winemaker's Cup 2010 bbq lunch, Mt. Baldy, Photo by Voth Photography, Copyright

Bbq lunch out on the Mt. Baldy patio was limited to (succulent) prawns (perfectly herbed and spiced) and a few ribs (smothered in tangy bbq sauce and falling off the bone) with beer served in (recyclable!) plastic cups. The dark beer proved so popular among these grapegrowers that it was drunk up within the first round of pours.

Winemakers Cup 2010, Photo copyright by Voth Photography

Which only left a few kegs of the pale ale to work through for the rest of the balmy, sunny afternoon. What a departure from last year, when, tells Kathy from Hillside, the wind blew and the mountain shook. She admitted at the After Party later that she wished she hadn’t gone golfing that day, where the wind had blown and the golf tees had shook, and had joined her kindred up on the sunny ski slopes.

Pat(Nk'Mip), Jay (Enotecca), Mohammed (Enotecca), Winemakers Cup 2010, Photo by Voth Photography

Yay to Jay! Who took home the most prestigious of Winner’s Cups – the Trophy for the Best Crash. Now that Mohammed will be overseeing that ranch, we’ll expect no less of Jay next year! Dinner at Spirit Ridge kept everyone busy and Jay and Mohammed earned additional stripes by pouring for their comrades. Pat, fully relaxed from a Hot Tub soak just prior to the mega chow down, let his Passo Tempo staff do the honors of hard work and slave-cooking for the culinary crowd that evening.

Skiiers, Winemakers Cup 2010, Photo by Voth Photography

After-Party rules of entry are bring – at least – one bottle. You grab a glass as you walk in, then you just start pouring for yourself and you don’t stop until you tell yourself to. Best wine tasting party rules I’ve heard of! Among the seen and heard at the After Party were Mark Anthony’s Lori, Nk’Mip’s Sam, Church and State’s Jeff, Summerhill staff, Road 13 was there to represent…and so many more that the room began to take on the feel of a Hollywood and Vines episode…best to check All She Wrote’s real time Tweets from Saturday night for the full roster of the valley’s Society names and the people who make them [the wines, yes, the wines].

Winemakers Cup 2010, Photo by Voth Photography

Funny thing too is that these winemakers did – almost – start to take on a magical patina as the evening marched on and bottles of Okanagan’s finest were emptied…

Jesse and Mohammed, Black Hills Estate and Spirit Ridge/Enotecca, Photo by Voth Photography

Then again, we wouldn’t want to get carried away. We’ll just say…Until next year’s Winemaker’s Cup!

All photos by Voth Photography

subject to copyright. For more Info

Please go to Voth Photography.

Twitter @LocalFoodWine

Posted via web from Okanagan Food And Wine